| WCATS Bat Jum Dao(Eight Slashing/Piercing Sword-Set)
 by Danny Yinsheng Xuan
 
 
Thailand, like many countries in Asia, didn't 
						modernize their weapons of war until after the Second 
						World War. Until then, they mainly used swords and 
						spears as their weapons. Even after modernization, 
						villages and families continued making swords as a 
						tradition. On the other hand, the West hung its sabers 
						in the 18th century, at the arrival of firearms, and 
						wore them only symbolically.  By the time guns and rifles came to Asia, they were 
						too advanced for the Asians to manufacture. They were 
						also too expensive to import. Only the high officers and 
						the rich were able to afford them. Swords remained as 
						their main weapon of war.  Swords were more than a weapon to Asian swordsmen. 
						They were carried with pride; they were regarded as 
						tradition, culture and art; and they were believed to 
						possess spirits. Those who fought with them, died with 
						them. Those who survived, passed their swords to their 
						heirs, who cared for them until it was time to hand down 
						to the next generation. The Blasdesmiths In Thailand, there was a period when some bladesmiths 
						switched to making single-shot rifles; however, the 
						trade was banned when the country transformed from 
						absolute to constitutional monarchy. When the trade 
						died, these families could not switch back to 
						swordmaking, as the passing of the swordmaking knowledge 
						and lineage had been broken. However, those, who did not 
						switched to rifle-making, were able to continue making 
						swords, and pass on their knowledge to the next 
						generation to this day.  In the old days, bladesmithing was a well-respected 
						art and career. Good bladesmiths were rare and respected 
						citizens. Even when invaders conquered a town, they 
						would spare the lives of bladesmiths, and make them 
						their swordmakers. Although not as prominent, 
						bladesmiths are still respected citizens in Thailand.
						 In my search for traditional blademasters in 
						Thailand, I found several in different areas of 
						Thailand. Some smelt iron from local ore and drop forge 
						their swords from the scratch; and some imported 
						high-quality stainless steel from US, Germany, 
						Switzerland, and Japan, and forged them in charcoal or 
						electric ovens. Some specialized in traditional Thai 
						swords; some in Japanese katana; some in ancient 
						European swords; and some in contemporary Western 
						knives. Each area is famous for a certain type of work. 
						Each area has its own renowned bladesmith.  Why Thailand Bat Jum Dao I have located and narrowed my sources down to three 
						master bladesmiths who will make my quality Bat-Jum-Daos. 
						There are several advantages to making the swords in 
						Thailand than in other countries:  The labor in Thailand is cheap compared to the West. 
						Labor is the major part of sword-making. Although the 
						labor in Thailand is higher than other parts of Asia 
						such as China, India, Burma, Indonesia, and other 
						developing nations, the infrastructure is better in 
						Thailand than these countries, allowing easier access to 
						required goods for sword-making. Being a freer society 
						than these countries, Thais tend to be more artistic. If 
						any of you have been to Thailand, you will know what I 
						mean. The country flourishes with handicrafts of all 
						nature. On the other hand, the other countries, for 
						example, China ...although the labor is cheaper, and is 
						developing at a phenomenal rate, the people have only 
						recently began to express themselves. For 50 years, they 
						were closed from the outside world. Their only concern 
						was survival. There was no time or interest for any type 
						of art. In fact, much of it was banned. The art of 
						sword-making died a lot time ago. Today, China only 
						produces mass replicas. There are absolutely no 
						bladesmiths, per se. Thais, on the other hand, have 
						improved their lives progressively. They demand quality 
						and finer goods. They are very much influenced by the 
						West. Many are educated, and keep themselves abreast 
						with the latest technology and trends. Thus, their 
						products are quality and style oriented.  West's passion for swords, particularly the Japanese 
						katana, came about recently, after Hollywood's interest 
						in martial art movies. Although custom knife-makers 
						always existed in the West, there were only a few 
						sword-makers until recently. There is a big difference 
						between knife-making and sword-making because of the 
						different usage. Balancing the sword is the most 
						difficult part of sword-making. There really isn't a 
						mathematical formula for balancing a sword. The 
						bladesmith only knows it by his feel. It also depends on 
						how the sword will be used. A Japanese bladesmith will 
						know how to balance a katana the best. A Thai bladesmith 
						will know how to balance a Thai dharb the best. However, 
						both types of bladesmiths will know how to balance the 
						other type of sword when they know how the swords are 
						used. A sword form (shadow swordplay) would be the best 
						source of information.  Factors in Making Bat Jum Dao: Balance Making Bat Jum Daos are as peculiar as making 
						katanas. The usage is very unique. The BJD form reveals 
						the formula for BJD-making. There are several factors in 
						making BJD. Making them from picture details will not 
						suffice. Making them from measurements will not suffice. 
						Even giving a sample pair to a bladesmith to replicate 
						will not suffice.  A bladesmith needs to know exactly how the swords 
						will be used for him to balance it. This can only be 
						revealed by the practitioner of the BJD form.  For example, if the weight of the sword leaned 
						towards the tip of the blade, the user's hand and arm 
						would tire from "lifting the sword." If the weight 
						leaned towards the hilt, then there wouldn't be 
						supportive weight on the blade, to apply force to a 
						strike. The force will mostly be exerted by the arm, 
						which will cause the arm to tire as well. The force 
						would not be as powerful. One is likely to believe that 
						the balancing point of a sword ought be at the center of 
						the whole sword; "Buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!" Incorrect! It 
						should be where it ought to be for the usage.  Bat Jum Daos are unique as they are used for stabbing 
						(piercing/thrusting action), chopping (downward/forward 
						action), slashing/slicing (pulling/pushing/dragging 
						action), and pole/blade-trapping (blade-twisting 
						action). How do you design a sword with such versatile 
						movements? Not easily! I had the bladesmiths make 
						several trial and error prototypes before settling on 
						the perfect balanced BJDs. You can try copying my BJDs 
						but will not succeed in balancing them right ... unless 
						you're a knowledgeable bladesmith and a BJD 
						practitioner.  For example, if you took the exact measurements of my 
						BJDs and got someone to replicate them, you will not 
						know where the balance lies. Using different material 
						will render different weight. Replicating the thickness 
						of the blade spine does not replicate the weight or 
						balance of a sword. Even a bladesmith cannot determine 
						the final weight of the sword until the sword is 
						finished. Each sword he makes will vary in weight. He 
						will create the balance point when he's forging the 
						sword. The thickness of a blade and tang is one of the 
						factors of balancing a sword. The bladesmith may subtly 
						increase the thickness at the balance point; however, it 
						would be too subtle and gradual for an inexperienced eye 
						to detect. He may increase or lessen the weight on the 
						hilt by changing the weight in the tang or the pommel. 
						If necessary, the bladesmith may cut out a fuller 
						(channel) on the blade to shed some weight and bring the 
						balance point where he wants. (Note: The fuller's main 
						purpose is to lighten and balance the sword, 
						particularly for a long or broadsword; it is not really 
						for passing the blood through ... although it does help 
						reduce resistance when stabbing.) So, like everything 
						else, making a copy from an image or not knowing the 
						function of the original, will never make a good copy. 
						This is not to say that a Western bladesmith would not 
						be able to duplicate or make a new pair of BJDs from a 
						BJD practitioner. They can be done ... but at a very 
						high price. If you surf the web for custom knives, you 
						will see US-made 6-inch knives sold from $300 to $1,000. 
						BJDs sold online are so crappy that I'd be ashamed to 
						line them up with my kitchen knives. A nice looking pair 
						that I saw, although not correct in specs, but 
						beautifully finished, are selling for $2,700.00.  Thoughts on Commonly Seen Bat Jum Dao Swords When I see pictures in the net and magazines of 
						people posing with their BJDs, I can tell that most of 
						them don't know the BJD form, or don't know the true 
						essence of it. When I look at the pictures of BJDs sold 
						online, I can tell that most of the bladesmiths have no 
						clue about the BJD form or usage, or the person who 
						designed them knew nothing about BJDs, BJD form, or even 
						swords.  The pictures usually show big choppers, with handles 
						that do not align with the blade point. Some grips are 
						not even aligned within the bodies of the blades. 
						They're outside and above the blade back. The hand 
						holding the grip will have virtually zero control over 
						the blade. The design also tells me that the tang and 
						the blade are two different pieces (instead of one piece 
						like mine), or that it has a very thin tang inside the 
						handle. It tells me that the two pieces were welded, or 
						that the whole sword (blade, and hilt) was produced from 
						pouring hot metal and synthetic mix into a mold (instead 
						of drop-forged like mine). In either case, the 
						likelihood of the sword snapping at the tang-blade joint 
						is very high; and the likelihood of the sword snapping 
						at any point of the molded sword is very high.  2-in-1 Swords Grandmaster Moy Yat was not only a knowledgeable Wing 
						Chun master, but was also an artist. He was a Chinese 
						calligraphist and a poet. He was analytic and a very 
						detailed person; and to my knowledge, was the first 
						person to draft a blueprint of the wooden dummy (which I 
						believe, is the one widely used in the Internet). When 
						he was still in Hong Kong in the 60's, he had a pair of 
						BJDs made, either according to Grandmaster Yip Man's or 
						his specifications. The BJDs were made crudely by a 
						blacksmith (as opposed to a bladesmith); however, the 
						specifications were true to the form. When his god-son, 
						and Wing Chun protege, (Sifu) Nelson Chan, left Hong 
						Kong for Canada, GM Moy Yat gave him this pair of BJD as 
						his parting gift. (See pictures below.)      Note that Sifu Chan's BJDs are, what I refer to as, 
						2-in-1 swords; that is, the two are flushed together to 
						become one; in other words, each sword is half, and 
						become one when put together. In the old days, this 
						style was practical for concealment. Since the Manchu (Qing) 
						Dynasty banned the Han-Chinese from carrying weapons, it 
						was necessary for the Chinese insurgents to conceal 
						their weapons. This was possible because the fashion of 
						the era was loose-clothing, which allowed the BJDs to be 
						concealed without notice. The monks who carried BJDs 
						were also able to conceal them in their robes. Today, it 
						is not necessary or possible to conceal this type of 
						BJDs. In fact, it is not practical. When the handle is 
						half covered, it is difficult to get a good grip. The 
						hands would tire quickly, and would develop blisters 
						from long training. The swords will not be well-balanced 
						either, since each will lean outwardly towards the 
						covered side of the tang. So, how did the old-timers 
						manage them? Well ... they may have trained with fully 
						finished swords, but carried the 2-in-1 when traveling; 
						or maybe they just trained with the 2-in-1 BJDs and 
						adapted to them. As with anything else, if you train 
						hard enough, you will become proficient with your odd 
						equipment. For example, Jimi Hendrix, the most famous 
						rock guitarist, played with a right-handed guitar he 
						rigged for his left-handedness. He didn't use a guitar 
						especially designed for a left-handed person. He just 
						strung a right-handed guitar backwards, and played 
						backwards, unlike any other guitarist.  Here's an interesting note for you. To my surprise, 
						one of the blademasters I visited owned a single BJD, 
						exactly like that of Moy Yat's. As a bladesmith, he 
						collects all types of swords. He bought this in a bazaar 
						many years ago. He told me that he knows of a customer 
						who has a pair just like his, and that he had owned it 
						for over 50 years. The owner is an old Chinese Tong 
						(mafia) Snakehead. I'm curious to know if the Snakehead 
						is a Wing Chun practitioner. I wouldn't be surprised 
						since many southern Chinese migrated to Thailand during 
						WW II and Communist revolution. I have requested to meet 
						him and see his swords the next time I visit this town.
						 Our Swords
 With specifications provided by Sifu Nelson Chan, my 
						understanding of BJDs, and the bladesmiths expertise, we 
						have produced the finest, the most accurate, and the 
						most practical BJDs in the market. For all practical 
						purposes, we've redesigned the BJDs as two individual 
						swords rather than 2-in-1. However, for those who are 
						adamant about having the 2-in-1 style, we have also 
						developed a pattern from GM Moy Yat's BJDs.  Note that buck and buffalo horn handles will be 
						curved because of their nature. The curvature is ideal 
						for gripping as the inside of our palms (in gripping 
						position) are also curved by nature. (That is why the 
						creases in our palms are curved.)  By nature, the two horns on an animal are not 
						identical in size or symmetry; just as a person's left 
						side is not identical to the right. This works to the 
						advantage of using them for grips. One of our hands is 
						always larger and stronger than the other (whichever is 
						used more). Therefore, do not cry "Imperfect!" when you 
						received two different sized grips. In fact, since the 
						swords are hand-forged, the two swords will not be 
						exactly the same. This again works to the user's 
						advantage. The bladesmith was informed that the BJDs 
						will be used as a pair .... one for the left hand, and 
						one for the right; not one for each person, as it could 
						easily be mistaken for. Therefore, they will be made 
						specifically for one to weigh slightly more than the 
						other.  The sword sheath or scabbard is a culture on its own. 
						Sometimes, it can be more elaborate than the sword. I've 
						used water-buffalo for most because of its toughness, 
						durability, and practicality. They can be worn better 
						than wooden ones. I've either seen BJDs sold without 
						sheaths, or with cheesy looking ones. A sword without a 
						sheath is like a sheath without a sword. How could 
						someone carry or look after a sword without it? I've 
						designed my leather sheath with a crossover shoulder 
						strap, as I think it is the most practical way to carry 
						the BJD. Alternatively, I can make a pair with wood, to 
						be carried crossways on the back, like ancient Thai 
						warriors. (See picture below.)   The Quillon
 I've seen BJDs designed with brass guard and quillon. 
						This design is attractive because of the contrast 
						between stainless steel and brass. However, the brass is 
						not as strong as stainless steel. In fact the finials 
						(the quillon-extension that runs along the back of the 
						blade), which in the BJD is meant to trap an opponent's 
						weapon, should be flexible, so it can adapt to various 
						size weapons, and also prevent it from breaking under 
						force. It should be flat, not round and hard, for the 
						same reasons. The light and flexible finial concept is 
						in line with the Wing Chun principle of yielding against 
						hard force. The finials act as your forearms. They are 
						soft, and yield against attacks. Note the similarity 
						between the finials and the Wing Chun Bong arm. The 
						straight quillon represent the fixed upper-arm, and the 
						45 degree angle finial represent the forearm. I've made 
						some with more acute angles for other reasons. However, 
						none have the wide gaps as seen on other vendors' 
						swords. The wide open rounded finials of other "BJDs" 
						look more like the outside prongs of Japanese Sais, 
						which are really farm tools used as weapons. I have the 
						feeling that these BJD designers were influenced by the 
						design of Japanese Sai, which have absolutely no 
						connections or similarities to BJDs. For Wing Chun BJDs, 
						the finials (forearms) ought to be soft (yielding), the 
						blades (hands and fists) ought to be hard (forceful) for 
						striking. BJDs are small and short swords, therefore, 
						will almost always be encountering larger weapons. Like 
						anything else, the larger an object, the stronger it 
						will be against a smaller object of the same kind. 
						However, The concept of Wing Chun is to yield against a 
						larger force. Only through yielding can you overcome it. 
						So, consider these factors before deciding on the 
						combination. If you are purchasing the BJD for 
						collection or decorative purpose only, the brass 
						trimmings would make a handsome set. If you are going to 
						put the BJD to use, you will be better off with the 
						stainless steel.  Below is a picture of a pair of Shaolin style 
						"butterfly swords," sold in the market, made with 
						rounded brass finials. As you see, one is broken. You 
						will also see how poorly they are designed for Wing 
						Chun. The handle is way below the blade point. The 
						quillon and finials are too wide for trapping. An 
						opponent's weapon could slip out too easily. In order to 
						trap a weapon, the user will need to twist his wrist a 
						lot. A twisted wrist is not as strong as a 
						straight-flushed wrist. Obviously, this sword 
						encountered a stronger weapon, or perhaps, simply 
						dropped on a hard surface.      The Steel For those of you who are not familiar with the 
						differences between the types of stainless steel, the 
						table below shows you the compositions for ATS34 and 
						440C.  
							
								|  | Carbon | Manganese | Phosphor | Sulphur | Chromium | Silicon | Molybdenum |  
								| ATS34 | 1.05 | 0.4 | 0.03 | 0.02 | 14.0 | 0.35 | 4.0 |  
								| 440C | 1.2 | 1.0 | 0.04 | 0.03 | 18.0 | 1.0 | 0.75 |  Bladesmiths and knife-makers differ in opinions on 
						which of the two is stronger. The compositions are 
						similar except for ATS using more Molybdenum than 440C 
						steel, and 440C using more carbon and chromium than 
						ATS34 steel. The characteristics of chromium give the 
						steel a colorful luster, while the Molybdenum give the 
						steel a dark luster. Both types are used for commercial 
						aircraft, therefore, understandably very strong.  I lean more towards 440C because of the extra carbon 
						content. The carbon gives the steel more flexibility. 
						This is a good property to have in a sword. When 
						something is hard, it is also brittle. Under very strong 
						pressure, it can snap. Although it is unlikely you will 
						be swashbuckling your BJDs wildly with someone, the 
						extra flexibility would ensure longevity and resistance 
						against heavy use. On the other hand, ATS-34 is commonly 
						used for knives. The property of hardness is more 
						desirable for knife-length blades.  Namphi Iron I made a pair of BJDs out of Thai Namphi iron for 
						collection and uniqueness. I don't believe it would be 
						as durable as 440C or ATS-34. However, the iron is 
						unique, rare and soon to become extinct. It has 
						historical and spiritual value. Namphi swords were 
						exclusively made for kings of Thailand. Namphi iron is 
						smelted from an ore pit located in the Namphi district 
						of Uttaradit province of Thailand. The ore contains 
						iron, manganese, silicon, aluminum, titanium, 
						cerchromium, boron, lead-tin, niobium, cobalt, arsen, 
						and 20 other unknown materials. The Thais believe swords 
						and objects made from Namphi ore possess magical power 
						and sacredness that can repel evil spirits and spells. 
						As part of the ritual, bladesmiths in Namphi engrave 
						ancient religious scripts on their blades to empower 
						them against evil spirits. (See pictures of Namphi BJDs 
						in the Bat Jum Dao Prices and Pictures chapter.)  The pictures below, taken in the Namphi Museum, 
						depict Namphi villagers making Namphi swords.  Uttaradit, where Namphi is located, is well known for 
						its teak growth. It boasts to have the most and biggest 
						teaks in the world. For this reason, I've made the 
						scabbard out of teak. The alternative is to use ebony or 
						rosewood; however, I chose teak not only for its 
						abundance, but also because it allows pearl-inlays to 
						stick. The oily property of the other two does not hold 
						the glue required to make the pearl inlays stick.  If you want, I can make plain scabbards out of ebony 
						or rosewood.  Pearl-inlay is an attractive feature. Namphi 
						villagers are very good at it. The labor extensive 
						artworks cost only $150 for two grips and one scabbard, 
						and $250 for two grips and two scabbards. (See pictures 
						of Namphi BJDs and pearl-inlay scabbards in the Bat Jum 
						Dao Price and Picture section.)  Whatever you order for your Bat Jum Dao, rest assure 
						that you will get the best and most unique Bat Jum Daos 
						available in the market. 
Copyright (c) 2005 the Wing Chun Archive and 
Danny Xuan 10/26/05 |